Away with the notion that prisoners bound for the death
chamber request kingly feasts: one of the most common last meals in America is
a humble cheeseburger with fries.
Few situations are more harrowing than anticipating one's
own execution, so we can understand why the condemned man, whiling away his
final hours, would want the comfortingly familiar. Who caves to exotic cravings
at such a time, let alone thinks of eating at all?
Tricksters throughout the long history of capital
punishment have tried gaming the system, making outré requests to delay the process
or piss off whoever would see them hanged, beheaded, shot, what have you.
Gradually imposed restrictions curbed such efforts, so that modern last meals
often have to come from vendors in the vicinity of the prison doing the
killing. Since US prisons aren't constructed, by and large, in bustling
cosmopolitan areas, last-meal options are frequently limited to drive-through
fare. There's typically a low budget cap, too. No clever forestallments by demanding bird's nest soup, Mr. Multiple
Murderer; you'll be lucky to get some KFC and a smirk from the warden.
Although sentenced to life without parole, I'm not in the
precarious position of awaiting formal execution by the State of Missouri. I
can swear, however, that the chance I'd opt for a burger at death's door is
exactly zero.
Granola. That was my parents, growing up. We had VW Microbuses in the driveway,
a prodigious vegetable garden out back, and rice cakes and lentils in the
kitchen. Mama swore by the health benefits of eating bee propolis; Papa built
his own food dehydrator. This is relevant because I was eight years old on the
weekend I tasted my first soda and nearly gagged on its sweetness. My cousin
gave me a withering look, then slugged hers straight from the three-liter
bottle. I poured myself a nice glass of milk. Later, between turns at Super
Mario Bros., she offered a Swiss roll. I took one bite, nothing at all like the
cakes Mama made, then I ceded to my cousin the uneaten portion.
Mama did a lot of baking, especially through the winter.
Much of our heat came from a living-room wood stove with baking racks behind
its firebox. When I was very small I sat close to it, enraptured by the flames.
Their warmth was as much a comfort as the aroma of Mama's sweet whole-grain
loaves. When the time came to pull the bread and let it cool, I was quick with
the oven mitts. This makes for fine memories, but best of all was when Mama cut
the first slice with her big round-tipped bread knife: that curl of steam
escaping through the dark crust, that scent like no other, the slight bowing of
the heel before it fell away and exposed the hearty inner substance, rich brown
and supple, almost spongy. With a pat of salted butter melted across the
surface and glistening, Mama presented that first slice to me. This remains my
ultimate sensory memory, from a near-perfect childhood replete with them.
I was arrested when I was twenty-two years old. The
circumstances leading to and arising from this comprise a story already widely
told, immaterial to this essay except to say that, after being tried by a jury
and convicted, then sentenced to two life sentences, my diet radically changed.
All the Sunday mornings Papa made from-scratch waffles or
pancakes, all the bohemian get-togethers where friends gravitated to our
vibrant kitchen, all the German dishes — Linsen und Spätzle, Zwiebelkuchen,
Kalter Hund — on which Mama
raised me, all the trips to the market, where farmers hawked their wares by the
riverfront: flats of berries; boxes of leafy greens; brown eggs nested by the
dozen in shredded newspaper; plump tomatoes in a hundred sizes and shades of
red, yellow, and green; caged, round-eyed rabbits, adorably doomed to be stewed;
squash in an earthy kaleidoscope of hues; nectarines, peaches, and melons so
ripe that their scent carried thickly into the next row of stalls; eggplants
like balls of night; plump, bright peppers; baked goods ranging from zucchini
bread to strawberry rhubarb pie; myriad root vegetables like the toes of giants;
and on and on, as far as I could see from atop Papa's shoulders. These
experiences instilled in me a love for the beauty of food.
By the time I struck out on my own, my first apartment's
kitchen lacked a microwave but featured a small arsenal of cutlery, mixing
bowls, and saucepans. I might have been the only teenager in the city who owned
an Italian marble cutting board, a pasta machine, and a mandoline. I still
shopped the market. I considered culinary school.
Miniscule portions of the lowest-quality stuff legally
classifiable as food made up meals in the county jail. The olfactory trauma I
suffered from the bologna's kerosene stink there will never fade. An already
slender young man, after my arrest I lost weight at a startling pace. My cheeks
hollowed. My ribs showed. I'm not sure now if, in the days leading up to my
trial, I ate anything at all.
I fell into the Department of Corrections' custody
thirteen months later, and my body nearly went into shock. In prison they
served occasional fresh vegetables and fruit, and the portions, while hardly
large, were comparatively generous. While the institution's food wouldn't win
any awards, it was edible more often than not. Every so often it verged on
tasty.
As an incentive for good behavior, Missouri prisons grant
inmates without conduct violations a couple of special opportunities each year.
Food visits allow loved ones to bring four "food items," plus bread,
butter, and individually packaged condiments, with them into facilities'
visiting rooms. In eighteen years I've only missed two, due to minor
infractions, and both instances felt like grievous losses.
Food visits are a gustatory lifeline, my one real chance
to feel anything akin to that long-distant pleasure once found in a kitchen
full of friends. Invitations go out weeks in advance, and the guest lists are,
by necessity, short. RSVPs are booked on a first come, first served basis. The
meals we gather around aren't of cheeseburgers or fried chicken, popcorn shrimp
or pork chops, but more salubrious fare, oftentimes lovingly prepared by my
mother, who makes the five-hour drive to see me every month.
Lamb rogan josh, chipotle meatloaf, vegetarian brick-oven
pizza, fresh-from-the-butcher Knackwurst,
big bowls of baba ghanouj, roast Guinea pig, lasagna and cannoli made by an old
Italian woman who really knew what
she was doing, grilled halibut, Black Forest gateau, Godiva chocolate
cheesecake, soan papdi, croissants
with Nutella and raspberry preserves — the years' standouts are too
numerous to recount, and my mother laughs at how often I've declared,
"This is the best food visit yet"; although, it so often is.
Other food-visit tables end up littered with crumpled
Sonic bags, Styrofoam take-out clamshells, and cardboard boxes from Imo's
Pizza. After institutional rules changed, disallowing my mother's big, bright
Frieda Kahlo bag, she started bringing transparent totes still brimming with
enough colors to constitute exotica in this drab place. Wandering eyes take
note. Even the prison guards overseeing visits often stop by our table to gawk,
then crack wise about the shittiness of their own lunches. What does it say
when a prisoner's meal elicits jealousy from someone who can eat almost
anything, anywhere they desire?
An argument can be made for the cruelty of capital
punishment. Another can be made, likening life without parole to an execution
of inhumane duration. If the latter holds a kernel of validity, either I'm
exceptional for using adventure, variety, and spice to plan food visit menus,
or existential terror takes longer than eighteen years to set in. Maybe my
deadening is still in its early stages. What I'm certain about is that I'd
choose an atypical last meal.
On the eve of my death, what better than one of
humanity's most basic foodstuffs: bread, oven-warm, if possible, with a dish of
salted butter? The type of bread wouldn't especially matter. Whether it's rye,
sourdough, toasted-seed nine-grain, challah, focaccia, Irish, or French, bread
is bread. Bread fostered society's growth. Bread is good. Bread is (to wax
poetical for a moment) life itself. In this choice would lie an irresistible
symbolism, a nod to the cyclical nature of things — ending with the
beginning.
A soft center is revealed as the serrated blade splits
the crust. A whiff of heaven floats free in a wisp. The slice falls, instantly
cooling. This image compels and comforts me. It's no cheeseburger, but death
and food are uniquely personal. It's a last meal. You should have it your way.